Sunday, May 24, 2015

Pilgrim Food


While training for this adventure we ran into a woman in Eugene who shared that her daughters had walked the Camino in recent years. She assured us we would enjoy the walk, but cautioned us that the food was "horrible". We had trouble believing that we couldn't find good food in Spain, and are happy to report that we are, in fact, eating well! But some folks have asked us about meals 
A good day in España starts with café con leche!

 A typical Spanish breakfast is toast with butter and jam and a cup of coffee, tea, or hot chocolate. Sometimes you can also get fruit, and only rarely is there is yogurt, cheese, meat, eggs, cereal, etc. Once in an while breakfast is part of your lodging fee, but you can usually get something at a local bar for about 3-4€. Lunch or daytime snacks are hit or miss. We keep nuts and a couple pieces of fruit in our packs just in case. Often we are able to stop for a snack of Spanish tortilla (the egg, onion & potato dish we've mentioned before) or a bocadillo (aka sandwich) which is a baguette-like bread with cheese or ham or sometimes Spanish tortilla inside. These plus other snacks (like chocolate:-) can be gotten at bars or little shops along the route (if there is a town on the way). 
Almost to a bar = snacks!

For supper, MANY restaurants, bars, etc. offer a 3-course pilgrim menu with starter, main, and dessert (along with wine, water & bread). Sometimes you order from choices, other times you are simply served 'the menu', and sometimes the place you are staying has a communal meal served family style. Most dinners are between 8€ -15€. Once in a great while it is part of your room cost. Many albuergues also have kitchens for pilgrims to use if you wish to cook. We haven't done this, mostly because we aren't in the mood to cook in strange kitchens after walking all day, showering, and doing our laundry. It is SO much easier to eat whatever you are served. There was one day we knew we were staying in a town with no dinner options, so we brought picnic snacks of bread, cheese, fruit and nuts (and chocolate!) to hold us over. 
Chocolate museum in Astorga

While Spaniards eat at different hours than most pilgrims, the places along The Way, especially in the little towns whose whole economy is supported by pilgrims, are usually open and happy to serve you. There are also little shops, called tiendas, that can vary from the size of a small convenience store to a room in someones's home. They carry a wide variety of things: usually pre-packaged items, basic first aid, and sometimes they'll make a sandwich or have fresh fruit.  Many of them also carry travel size toiletries, band aids, and pilgrim 'souvenirs'.  
Cheese Tasting @ a Queseria in Gallecia

                                  
 
We are also good at trying local 'specialties' as we pass through a region. So Basque cake in the Pyranees; garlic soup with fresh bread in the early days; chocolate in Astorga; red wine everywhere, especially in Rioja; cider, seafood (including pulpo, AKA octopus)and amazing cheeses in Gallicia. All in all, we have eaten VERY well. Some folks have asked if we are losing weight with all the walking. Some pilgrims have mentioned their pants are looser. We think they haven't tried as many items that aren't on the typical pilgrim menu as we have! While we haven't stepped on a scale, my guess is we are about where we started on that front. We have made up for the extra burned calories by having good food along the whole walk, and are grateful to have done so! 

                                     
Pulpo- octopus boiled, then topped with olive oil & spicy paprika


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