People we have met along The Way. . .

There is a stream of humanity that have made the walk to Santiago and the sea beyond that goes at least as far back as the Celts in Spain. It is kind of amazing to realize you are walking along the same path as did Francis of Assisi, King Ferdinand, Queen Isabella and Shirley MacLain, to name a random few. We have encountered a variety of pilgrims and thought you might like to know about a few. Names have been omitted to protect the innocent & also because our memories aren't always reliable! 

The Australian who had more gadgets and apps than Steve Jobs.

The German grandpa walking for the fourth time in 10 years to "get it right."   

The Russian/American who had researched local liqueurs. 

The Dutch girls on a gap year who had hitchhiked down and who have the best spirit of anyone we've met - those two know how to live life! 

The super chatty California guy who wrote songs for the dying, complained about not getting wifi on his iPad (yet he refused to take it out of airplane mode), and who was afraid to drink the water - so while he was worried about weight in his pack (which he didn't know how to adjust), was bringing along a water purifier.

The Spanish guys who made us laugh. Even though they were annoyed with our Spanish skills they were happy to run into us more than once.

Jennifer's "Blister Sister" from Germany with the positive spirit, who was so tired one night she couldn't remember her name while checking in to the albergue.

The English couple who are very thoughtful of others, but who take over an hour to pack up each day - after breakfast, when most pilgrims have left town. 

The loud Louisiana couple, about whom we know TOO much, who at least honestly label themselves tourist pilgrims because they stay in hotels, have others carry their packs and care more about the stars their restaurant has than trying to communicate in Spanish with those who are serving them.

The hippie chick from Finland with the easy laugh and the dandelion crown, who is struggling with walking the Camino alone, but who has grand plans for living off the grid in Lapland with her friends when she returns home. 

The widower from Spain whose wife died when he was walking the Camino two years ago. He is walking again, in part for her. He'll tell you all about her and how he fell in love at 18 (some 52 years ago) while showing you her picture with a twinkle in his eye. Though his Spanish is swift and his English nonexistent, somehow he is easy to understand.

The family from California we met the first day. Mom literally got blown over by the wind in the mountains. But she got back up, and all three were optimistic about the weeks ahead.

The British couple with whom we got tickled about the PlayMobil exhibit at the Santo Domingo cathedral (you read that right - stations of the cross AND Semana Santa processions all made out of playmobile figures!). We met again at the multilingual prayer service AND they hooked us up by telling us about the oft missed doors that lead to a staircase so you can walk around on the roof of the cathedral! 

The small but mighty woman from Denmark who keeps appearing in surprising places. She'll try most anything, including putting onion slices in her socks at night because someone told her it helps them rejuvenate from the day of walking.  

The sweet older guys from Belgium, Italy, and Spain who we met our first day of walking. The next day was spent making it through the snowy pass over the mountain. It took us so long we barely made it to town in time to get a room before the church service. We missed dinner and went looking for some food that night at the local bar -we were so physically and emotionally exhausted, achy and famished. We ordered wine and some tapas. When it was time to go the bartender said our bill had been paid and motioned to a table where our new friends were enjoying a beer. They said they were happy we were walking the Way. It made me cry then, and does now just thinking about their kindness on such a difficult day. 

The Cerveza dudes from Italy & France. Two 20somethings who met on the trail and were taking the Camino one beer at a time. They were delightful to chat with and we might run into them someday in Colorado since they want to see the US and some mountains...also, you know, beer.

The Canadian with Cerebral Palsy who only has the use of one hand, but who averages 25-30 kilometers a day over all terrain, all the while encouraging others.

The family from Holland who have walked from their front door to Rome (about 2500 kilometers) in 80 days. They began at home for the Camino, too. Did we mention, it is a brother, sister and his wife and the youngest one might be 75....

The math teacher and artist from Michigan who brought with him origami paper. He gives talks around the world speaking about math, science and the art of paper folding. He folds a cross every day and gives it away. 

This is just a small sample, and we are only about halfway through! Can't wait to see who we'll meet or see again in the days ahead. 

Camino-ffiti

There have been some artists at work, resulting in graffiti along the Way. We'll share some of our favorites with you. The works fall into three categories:

1. Typical "Bob was here" or "Guido loves Maria" or " for a good time call..." These we are not so interested in capturing for posterity. Also not captured are typical gang-esque tagging.

2. Political statements, made by those who appear to have some anger issues towards the current Spanish government. We were aware that entire regions are interested in independence, but the feelings are stronger than we anticipated - on both sides. We have photographed some of the more family-friendly sentiments. Also of interest: we find these messages written in English and in Spanish. 

3. Supportive art & words of encouragement, by both locals (we assume) and pilgrims (the attribution is more obvious). 

     

      

Surprising Camino Discoveries

After eleven days of walking here are some things we've learned (in no particular order)...

An omelette sandwich (eggs, onion, peppers on a baguette) made in the morning turns out to be a great, filling, protein packed lunch! Cold eggs on bread - who knew?

A determined cow can jump over a cattle guard with aplomb - we watched one sassy girl outrun her owner & a cow dog in the process.

In the mountains there exists the tiniest daffodil/narcissus you ever did see. The flower head was smaller than a dime.

Tiny towns in Spain have the coolest playgrounds with equipment for kids and parents. Some of them are to help you work out, others massage your back or shoulders. Some are made of ropes and some are just for jumping. 

When you don't really know what your dinner choices are (beyond knowing basic words like pork, chicken, beef, fish, vegetable, etc.) ask the server/cook which one is best or more typical of the region. They are so glad to show off the house or regional specialty to a pilgrim who wants more than "nuggets of chicken." Ask for the "mas tipico" and you end up with delicious surprises like ribs cooked over an open fire, pork slow roasted with red peppers and garlic or a plate full of yummy artichokes.

Discovering that a dessert of sheep milk curd and honey (cuajada) is not only good and refreshing, but becomes your first choice!

It turns out that with proper bandages, Tylenol, Advil & Stop Pain you can walk 20k with a dozen blisters on your feet. 

Ear plugs are an indispensable item when sleeping in a bunk room with a lot of strangers. Assuming you actually want to sleep. You might think you are dead tired, but a room full of humans can be NOISY...

A little kid giving you directions because they are afraid you are about to miss a turn in their town is pretty awesome. Especially when he is directing you to the wine fountain. "It is free. Go there and drink it in."  Well, okay. 

You are not so picky about wine when it's a free gift.

Walking from snowy mountains into blooming springtime is gorgeous.

We knew ham (aka: jamon) was a big deal here, and it is everywhere, but there are even jamon flavored potato chips! Haven't tried those yet.

The oranges here are SO very good. Plus, fresh squeezed juice-YUM!

The variety of pilgrim bathroom set-ups seems to be infinite. We have learned the importance of being able to shower in the dark in case the 2&1/2 minute long light on a timer goes off while you are soapy and wet. Also, it is possible to get pretty clean in a shower that is smaller than 2 square feet! Who really needs a shelf, a hook, or even a curtain? If you are hot & sweaty & exhausted, you can surely work it out with ease, right?

The number of people who welcome us into their town, home, etc. also pretty amazing. Fun delivery drivers tooting their horns, commuters who have practically slammed on their brakes for you in a crosswalk wishing you a 'buen viaje,' two old men on a park bench working out where we should go for the best dinner in town....

An 8:30 bedtime can be SUCH a great thing!

Quick Camino Update

After a week of walking, we can report that a typical day on the Camino looks like this:

Wake up (before dawn - earlier if your bunkmates want to start walking before dawn)

Treat blisters, etc., brush teeth & hair, get dressed (hope your clothes are dry from washing the night before)

Eat "typical Spanish breakfast" of coffee, bread, butter and jam

Put on loaded back pack and begin walking (usually 7:30-8:30am)

2-4 kilometers later, stop for coffee/tea & tortilla España (a potato/egg omelette kind of thing) which comes with more bread

Walk more (walking may include awesome views, big cities, picturesque Spanish villages, conversations with people from all over the world, periodic snacks, a few tears, the occasional pep talk, some singing, lots of prayer, birdsong & rivers,  and humbling spots where you can only keep going with the help of others)

When you can walk no longer (usually from 3-5pm) push through to the next town with a place to stay (albergue) - which can include 2-30 other people in bunks. Check in, get your credential stamped, leave your boots on the shelf with others, put on other shoes (feel your feet rejoice) find your bunk.

Shower (and give thanks for indoor, heated plumbing!)

Wash clothes from the day (usually by hand) & hang to dry

Find a snack, take a breath, stretch, deal with blisters/sunburn

Run errands - fruit, cheese, nuts for road/sunscreen, Tylenol, etc...

Find out about dinner - at albergue or local bar/restaurant - usually around 7pm & usually "pilgrim's menu" of an appetizer, a main dish (often served with fries), sometimes a dessert, always with bread & wine for about 8-12 €.

Get ready for bed (usually around 8:30-9:30pm) -  and plan to upload pictures & work on the blog tomorrow if the albergue has wifi.

Think about those you love and say a prayer for them, realize how grateful you are for all you saw & experienced today, write in journal till you fall asleep.

Easter (a day early)

Today we boarded a train at 8:00 am to begin our journey across northern Spain. Last night we welcomed the arrival of Easter by traveling a short distance to Chinchón to watch their annual Passion play. 

(This photo shows where they staged the Last Supper.)

The previous night we had the good fortune of seeing one of Madrid's Semana Santa processions right below our apartment window. No crowds to fight, and we could see the procession, albeit one of the shorter ones, in its entirety. We watched as Jesus' crown of thorns, then nails, were carried by, followed by Jesus himself, interred, and a traditional Spanish funeral procession, concluded with a band (from Chinchón), and - of course - the Blessed Virgin Mary. 

(Mary wearing a sunburst golden crown and royal robe,surrounded by lillies and candles.) 

The past few days in Madrid & surrounds (Toledo and San Lorenzo El Escorial) have been simply beautiful. Perfect weather - cool in the slow mornings, sunny and warm without much humidity during the long afternoons, and the most beautiful, clear blue skies. We have eaten amazing meals and drunk delicious sangria in a variety of locales. 

We feasted yesterday in celebration of the the Holy day in an ordinary restaurant on Chinchón's Plaza Mayor. Even though we arrived before noon and were hoping to secure a table outside, none seemed available...until we were invited to the balcony. White linens were set for our Menu del Día. A jug of house wine, large helpings of grilled meats (lamb chops &pork medallions) - not to mention the white asparagus spears and Spanish migas. 

Migas in España

White asparagus salad

Easter Feast - everything comes with fries!

Slowly, we savored our generous servings of custard/pudding, because we were reluctant to leave our table with a view of this amazing town. All day we were delighted with smells of olive oil, anise, garlic, rosemary, grilled meats and fresh air. What a way to welcome in Easter - and send us on our pilgrimage. 

Good to the last bite!

Our view from the balcony - you can see the area where they staged the crucifixion and the resurrection was portrayed with the stone church above the plaza serving as the tomb.

Much like native Spaniards, we got little sleep last night (Holy Saturday), as we packed our backpacks with all but our few items of clothes we washed and hung to dry. As we exited our perfectly located apartment at 6:15, we joined in with the all-night partiers stumbling home before dawn. 

Buen viaje y buen camino

Semana Santa Processions

Holy Week in Spain is a public occasion. In the south, especially Seviile, the crowds and events are large and non-stop. While the Madrileños we spoke with apologized that they don't do as much - it was still PLENTY for us! We arrived in Madrid on Monday night tired from travel. After settling into a rented apartment our only stop was the grocery store. 

Our host had picked up some information for us about the processions for which Spain is known. He, too, apologized that there wasn't more happening before handing us the keys and wishing us well. I have to say I can't really imagine what Seville is like this time of year if people think this week was no big deal. 

We were staying just off of the Plaza del Sol, which is truly in the middle of it all. Of the many processions that occurred this week we were able to make it to three of them - all of which went through the plaza, one of which (to our delight) went right down our street. The first was on Wednesday night. We knew it started a few blocks away at 7:30pm. So we made our way to the plaza around 7 and found a spot near a lamppost with a base that allowed us a bit of height for pictures. There was no hope for a seat as any spot near the base of the fountains, on the railing for the metro, etc. was taken. Then we waited. And waited some more. People just kept coming. The plaza is a little larger than a New York city block and soon it -and all of the surrounding sidewalks and curbs - were FULL. This plaza is ALWAYS  buzzing with life from about 3pm-5am. (Yes, you read that right - Spain is the motherland for night owls!) In fact looking out our balcony window was like watching a busy anthill most hours of the night. But the procession crowd wasn't moving so much - just filling in every single square inch of space (except the small areas marked off by police and ambulance personnel). 

Finally, at about 8:30 we began to hear thie drums and the band, and by 8:45 we could see candles glowing in the street. We watched with the crowd until after 10pm when the procession continued on - it was only halfway through its route when it departed our plaza. They must have marched well into the early morning hours.

These processions are led by various groups from churches and religious orders. They wear robes, and often hoods, and carry banners and TALL silver or gold candles, sometimes a cross of either wood or metal is also at the beginning. 

Then there are LARGE images of Christ or the Virgin Mary on platforms that are at least 7x4 feet. They are COVERED in decoration: gold and silver ornamentation, beautiful flowers, rich fabrics, statuary and candles. - so many candles. These are most often carried by 8-10 people, much like pall bearers carrying a casket. They are followed by a brass band with drummers who play a steady beat for most of the procession, playing somber songs at certain points. (There was apparently one on Saturday that was silent, but the others had drums and music.)

Some of the processions included other elements. One had young people carrying two velvet pillows, one bearing three nails, the other a crown of thorns. One of them was walking bare foot through the streets with chains on the ankles. 

Another procession stopped at the plaza to burn incense. Then the Christ figure, carrying a cross, was brought to the part of the plaza that has a memorial plaque for those who were killed in the Al Quieda bombings in Madrid in 2004. The procession stopped, and with Christ facing the memorial a member of the group ascended a ladder and laid flowers at te base. There was a moment of holy silence in that crowd of thousands, and many of us swallowed tears, then applause came from the crowd as the group resumed the procession, turning the figure of Christ and proceeding down the road. 

While being in those crowds gave us a better understanding of how easily one might be trampled as you leave, we were both glad to have had the chance to experience this kind of corporate observance first hand. We expected it to feel a bit more 'touristy'. While we are believers this kind of public pageantry and the kind of crowd that draws guys selling glow in the dark toys to children and watches or sunglasses to their parents seemed a bit much for Holy Week. Bit we wanted to see how the Spanish observe this season. What we found is that yes, there are tipsy teenagers and people trying to make a buck from the crowd, but the streets of the city became holy ground as people of all ages prayed and stood silent and reached out to kiss the statuary of Christ and Mary as they went past. The quiet, almost still moments between the pushing crowd and the crying children and the hurrying off to party all night were brief - but they were there. You could feel the energy of all the people as the drumbeats grew closer, and the reverence was tangible once the figures were in sight. And when in a simple pause to lay flowers at a memorial a link between resurrection hope was made with the faith of the people and the very real suffering of their fellow citizens all of us present couldn't help but be moved. It has truly been a Holy Week.