The Last Hundred Kilometers & Thoughts On Real, True Pilgrims

                            

                      Pilgrim vs. Tourist sign posted in an albergue

Is a true pilgrim one who walks the farthest? Carries the most on their back? Makes the most sacrifices to be on the walk? Has the most burdens in their heart, mind or soul? Is the true pilgrim one who attends mass at each church, prays without ceasing while walking and makes a donation at every opportunity leaving a trail of lit candles in their wake? Is it the person who has the coolest walking stick, the biggest shell or the one who knows the most history pertaining to St. James, Spain, or how medieval pilgrims made the walk? 

At the 100 kilometers to Santiago marker

It may seem silly, but as I mentioned last month, the topic of what makes a "real pilgrim" (versus a tourist) is entirely too common along the Way of St. James. This has become even more prevalent as we enter the final 100 kilometers to Santiago de Compostela. Pilgrims begin in many places, and there are several routes marked. We began walking in St. Jean Pied du Port, France. Many who are on this route began in Lu Puys, France, or in Spain at Roncesvalles, Pamplona, Burgos, Leon or other spots. The Catholic Church, who gives out a sort of certificate of completion to pilgrims, has said that one must walk more than 100 kilometers for the pilgrimage to 'count'. Therefore, when we reached the town of Sarria, the town just beyond that 100 kilometer mark on this route, the number of pilgrims increased. Substantially. Maybe even exponentially.

As did the grumbling among those who had already been walking for twenty, thirty, forty, or more days. Who were these people 'doing the minimum', and did they count as "real" pilgrims?

City coat of arms in a park

Last month I shared that we were moving slower than we had hoped for a variety of reasons. And we did, in the end, opt to 'hop on the hay wagon' (AKA: we took 2 days off to let feet heal and caught a train to get us on track with the walking time). It was a good decision that has meant we were able to keep walking and will have time to get to Santiago, as well as walking to Finisterre  and Muxia along the coast. In fact, by the time you read this, we will (hopefully) have done just that. 

 

Some artists' visions of what a pilgrim is...

We are not alone in finding ways to make the pilgrimage happen while dealing with the unexpected. There are pilgrims who have opted to send their backpacks ahead via taxi each day, carrying only water and necessities. There are some who catch a bus or taxi for parts of the path that will be too hard on already stressed knees, ankles, tendons, etc. There are some who opt to stay in a hotel rather than the bunk style hostels in order to catch up on sleep or soak sore feet. In short, lots of folks who have been walking for a while have done things they weren't planning on to be able to continue the journey. 

But the 'old' pilgrims sure had some thoughts about these 'new' folks. What about the ones who had sent ahead suitcases filled with clothes (and HAIR DRYERS!) in taxis, while we were still wearing the same two tired outfits we've been rotating and hand washing for about a month? What about the ones who used online booking sites to reserve hotel rooms, and even spots in our hostels when we had been taking what we could get (and were grateful for it!) in the bunk room? Some newcomers even had the nerve to be overly excited, wanting to CHAT early in the morning while the seasoned crew was trying to get packed up for the day?! 

Suitcases awaiting shipment via taxi to meet their owner at the next hostel

It sounds silly, but it's all true. And, if I'm being honest, I do have to confess to being annoyed that the path got crowded, and to a bit of being judgmental when asked where I had reservations for the night - aargh! Needless to say, I've been having to pray a little about the log in my own eye... 

It also got me to thinking. First of all I wondered how the folks who started weeks before me, or who were veterans who have walked many times, felt when we were the new pilgrims. They might have thought we asked silly questions or rolled their eyes at our naïveté, but instead - to a person- they were patient and kind and helpful. 

All of this also reminded me of the church. How do we welcome those who decide to join us on the journey? I know there are times when we forget that church might be scary, new, or disorienting for someone. We are all so used to our routines that it's easy to forget they might be foreign to someone just joining us. It's something we can all work on as we seek to welcome people into the community of faith. I have observed many of you graciously reaching out to someone who is new to our ways- explaining where we are in the service, sharing a hymnal, walking someone to coffee hour or a classroom, or patiently answering questions about a service opportunity. 

The thing is all of us are trying to be 'true' pilgrims. And it has less to do with kilometers walked or pounds carried, and more to do with the things of the heart. Showing our love of God and neighbor by how we treat one another, how we welcome the newcomer, the stranger in our midst - these are more important marks of 'true' pilgrims this side of paradise in my book. So, I'm working on sharing the road more graciously, encouraging fellow pilgrims to welcome our new companions, and remembering with gratitude the grace of all those who have helped me along the way. 

At Cruz de Fero

Pilgrim Food

While training for this adventure we ran into a woman in Eugene who shared that her daughters had walked the Camino in recent years. She assured us we would enjoy the walk, but cautioned us that the food was "horrible". We had trouble believing that we couldn't find good food in Spain, and are happy to report that we are, in fact, eating well! But some folks have asked us about meals 

A good day in España starts with café con leche!

 A typical Spanish breakfast is toast with butter and jam and a cup of coffee, tea, or hot chocolate. Sometimes you can also get fruit, and only rarely is there is yogurt, cheese, meat, eggs, cereal, etc. Once in an while breakfast is part of your lodging fee, but you can usually get something at a local bar for about 3-4€. Lunch or daytime snacks are hit or miss. We keep nuts and a couple pieces of fruit in our packs just in case. Often we are able to stop for a snack of Spanish tortilla (the egg, onion & potato dish we've mentioned before) or a bocadillo (aka sandwich) which is a baguette-like bread with cheese or ham or sometimes Spanish tortilla inside. These plus other snacks (like chocolate:-) can be gotten at bars or little shops along the route (if there is a town on the way). 

Almost to a bar = snacks!

For supper, MANY restaurants, bars, etc. offer a 3-course pilgrim menu with starter, main, and dessert (along with wine, water & bread). Sometimes you order from choices, other times you are simply served 'the menu', and sometimes the place you are staying has a communal meal served family style. Most dinners are between 8€ -15€. Once in a great while it is part of your room cost. Many albuergues also have kitchens for pilgrims to use if you wish to cook. We haven't done this, mostly because we aren't in the mood to cook in strange kitchens after walking all day, showering, and doing our laundry. It is SO much easier to eat whatever you are served. There was one day we knew we were staying in a town with no dinner options, so we brought picnic snacks of bread, cheese, fruit and nuts (and chocolate!) to hold us over. 

Chocolate museum in Astorga

While Spaniards eat at different hours than most pilgrims, the places along The Way, especially in the little towns whose whole economy is supported by pilgrims, are usually open and happy to serve you. There are also little shops, called tiendas, that can vary from the size of a small convenience store to a room in someones's home. They carry a wide variety of things: usually pre-packaged items, basic first aid, and sometimes they'll make a sandwich or have fresh fruit.  Many of them also carry travel size toiletries, band aids, and pilgrim 'souvenirs'.  

Cheese Tasting @ a Queseria in Gallecia

                                  

 

We are also good at trying local 'specialties' as we pass through a region. So Basque cake in the Pyranees; garlic soup with fresh bread in the early days; chocolate in Astorga; red wine everywhere, especially in Rioja; cider, seafood (including pulpo, AKA octopus)and amazing cheeses in Gallicia. All in all, we have eaten VERY well. Some folks have asked if we are losing weight with all the walking. Some pilgrims have mentioned their pants are looser. We think they haven't tried as many items that aren't on the typical pilgrim menu as we have! While we haven't stepped on a scale, my guess is we are about where we started on that front. We have made up for the extra burned calories by having good food along the whole walk, and are grateful to have done so! 

                                     

Pulpo- octopus boiled, then topped with olive oil & spicy paprika

Finding a place to sleep...

Pilgrims have been camping, sleeping in hay lofts, churches, monasteries, convents, and wherever they could lay their heads since this walk began. Since it became an "official" cultural route of the European Union, every town and building along the Camino is of historical and cultural significance. We have heard varying stories about how helpful this has been (or not) for the residents of these villages and cities. The upshot means more people are walking and more of them expect certain services. One of the biggest services is the many places for resting after a long day on your feet.

Pilgrim Dude logo of one albergue 

As a pilgrim, you register when you begin walking, and get a credential that you must present to be eligible to stay in many places. There are a variety of different options. The most common is the albergue (al-BEAR-gay). This is like a hostel, for pilgrims only. Most usually have a bunk room (or several bunk rooms) with shared bath. There is also often a place to hand-wash clothes and hang them out to dry. Some have a washing machine you can use for 2-3€, and a few will wash your clothes for you, for a fee. Many have a kitchen facility for those who wish to prepare their own meals. Some also have common areas - inside and/or out - for relaxing. There are public municipal albergues, parochial ones run by monks and nuns, and private ones. 

Our first albergue in St. Jean Pied de Port

They vary A LOT! Some are very basic with no bedding (in some you get a spot on the floor for your mat). Some have a pillow and bottom sheet. Some have disposable bottom sheets. Some host 100+ people in one long room of bunks, others use dividing walls or have rooms with 4-10 bunks in a room. Some have twin beds (no top bunk - what a luxury!), and a few have rooms with only 3-4 people in each. A bed in an albergue can be on a donation basis at the parochial ones or ones run by associations of friends of the Camino, or it can be anywhere from 5-15€. 

No boots in the bunk room - too stinky!

There are also other accommodation options, if you want a bit more "luxury". Some private albergues have single, double or triple private rooms as well as the bunk room. There are Casa Rurales and Pensiones, which are like bed and breakfasts. They often have rooms for 2, 3, or 4. and can range from 35-50+€ with a private bath (less if you share a common bath). Often these rooms come with a full set of sheets, a bath towel, and sometimes soap or shampoo. 

Pilgrim St. James statue outside albergue in Rabinal

Then there are hotels along the way. Some offer a pilgrim rate if you can show your credential. There are some folks we've met - particularly toward the end of the walk- who have made hotel reservations for their whole Camino experience. There is a LOT of debate among pilgrims as to whether this makes them tourists rather than 'true pilgrims', and how this commercialization and the use of sites like booking.com are changing the walk.

We have stayed in a wide variety of places, but mostly albergues - some municipal, some private, one run by the British Friends of the Camino. We have found that we like the smaller ones in smaller towns better than the huge ones in the city. We still haven't tried a parochial one. We have splurged a couple of times though on a private double room so that we can sleep! The noises in a room shared with lots of people - even with earplugs - can often make rest a challenge. Also, it can be challenging keeping all your items organized when you are cramped in with so many others. But we've gotten pretty good at settling in and packing up again in the morning. 

Cows being herded through town for milking time, with pilgrim laundry drying in the background...

We usually know we've found a place we will really like by the way we are greeted. Some people are particularly good at meeting you where you are. Typically by the time you have  walked all day and are looking for a room all you want is a place to put down your backpack and a shower. While the 'house rules' tend to be similar in most albergues, there are variations. You have to be told where to leave your boots, bathe, do laundry, cook or eat. You also have to present your pilgrim credential and sometimes your passport and (of course) pay. 

Bunk room in one albergue

Some places offer a cup of tea when you arrive, some bark at you to take off your boots. Some offer a chair and give you a minute to collect the items needed from your pack, others start rattling off pertinent information before you can begin to take it all in (often in a variety of languages). Most of the people we have encountered who run albergues work hard to welcome pilgrims, and have long hard days. Some of the smaller places prepare meals for us as well as cleaning the bunk and bathrooms and doing untold amounts of laundry. Then it all starts anew for them the next day with new pilgrims. 

There have been some who go above and beyond in the spirit of Christian hospitality. Here's a glimpse of those folks...

The man who runs the small municipal in his village. Pedro brought everyone's laundry in from the lines when it began to rain, and - realizing that some of the students had hoped to shop for food in the (non-existent) market - put yogurt and spoons out for breakfast so they wouldn't be walking hungry. 

The kind volunteers at the British friends of the Camino albergue who serve tea to their guests each afternoon in their mountain village albergue, as well as providing a cozy fire in a little library. 

A bench at the British albergue

The man who helps cook at the albergue in the Pyrenees. Jean Jacques also checks the pass for snow and ice, and personally shoveled/carved out steps through some challenging patches so that we (and all the other pilgrims) could safely walk over. He's the one who described the 80mph mountain winds as "muy tranquila"!

If you look closely you can see the trail he clears.

The golden retriever, Conan, at one albergue who wagged his tail as folks came in while his 'grandmother' Paula offered tea or coffee to pilgrims coming in from the rain. 

The eager man of proud Basque heritage who worked hard to create an environment where pilgrims could know one another better and share food, stories & laughter.

The friendly fellow with the cute middle school son who helped run the reception area. They were both happy to answer LOTS of questions about food as we entered a new region of Spain. 

The people who choose to welcome the day (aka wake up the pilgrims) with beautiful music! So nice when you need to be out by 8 and feel cared for rather than rushed. 

One of the places that starts the day with music.

The kind man in a town with a population of 12 who hosted pilgrims as graciously as he did the sweet elderly neighbor who was joining him for dinner by the fire. Jaime's neighbor's brother died last year, so the neighbor comes over for dinner and company each day and watches the parade of pilgrims who dine at the table he can see from his spot near the fireplace. 

The fun bartender/albergue owner who served an amazing and abundant communal meal for dinner, finished off with the traditional Galician Queimada!

Kirsten was asked to read the traditional encantation in English.

  

Care & Feeding of Pilgrims

In addition to many interesting fellow peregrinos, we have also had the privilege of meeting many Spaniards along The Way. It is actually pretty amazing just how hospitable folks along this path are to this rag tag bunch of people who might walk into your store/restaurant/hostel/etc. sweaty, dripping wet from rain, wearing muddy boots and try to communicate their needs in a mixture of bad Spanglish and worse pantomime. But almost to a person, especially in the smaller towns and villages, we have been greeted with easy smiles, a willingness to communicate in whatever way will work, and a sincere spirit of true hospitality. As beautiful as the scenery has been, it is nothing compared to Spain's people. Here is a glimpse into that reality...

The ex-pat Texan albergue volunteer who moved to Spain with 2 duffel bags of stuff and her dog - she ran into us looking for a place to stay on a feast day (read: whole town shuts down, all beds full in private lodging) and offered to walk us to the municipal albergue all the while pointing out places that would be open if we needed sustenance later. 

The waitress who offered bags of ice and ibuprofen (and not a little sympathy) with our morning cafe con leche when she could see that my feet were hurting more than usual.

The kind cook who hooked us up with ribs grilled over a fire & awesome artichokes just when our bodies & spirits needed some serious nourishing. Then he gave us a shot of the local liqueur when we complemented his cooking & insisted we come back for breakfast where we were served the largest coffee we've had the whole trip!

A word of encouragement, even a smile or nod, can really lift your spirits when you've had a hard time sleeping the night before, or are on the last few kilometers of a long day of walking.  Many locals wish us 'Buen Camino!' or 'Buen Viaje' as we walk through a town - one man stopped to say, 'Welcome!' Sometimes cars or trucks who can see us from the road or highway will honk and wave. Once, in Pamplona at a stop light, a motorcyclist stopped, flipped up the visor on his helmet, and looked us in the eye saying, "Buen Camino!" before zooming off with the green light.

The kind man who offered us part of a chocolate bar with breakfast saying we needed the energy for our day of walking.  

The genius former pilgrim who runs a food truck oasis in the middle of nowhere. All the guidebooks warn you to pack provisions and be ready for a long haul. But this guy must have made a deal with one of the local farmers to use a corner of land. He had the food truck, plus tables and chairs and music and an awning in case of rain or too much sun. He had sandwiches, fruit, Spanish tortilla, hot coffee, tea and chocolate, cold beer and sodas, and even a rack of necessary blister bandaging equipment! Plus pictures from his Camino experience and words of encouragement for weary walkers.

The Camino isn't something for which you need a map or GPS. The way is marked with shells and yellow arrows, so mostly you just pay attention and follow. However, once in a while, especially in some cities, there can be a tricky turn. But the locals look out for pilgrims. We have had children point excitedly in the direction we should go, old men driving trucks stop in the road and gesticulate wildly to make sure we don't miss a turn, and more than one lady leaning out an upper floor window waving and calling down to us if they think we are going to take the wrong road. We even spoke to some pilgrims who went off course a couple of kilometers when a farmer tilling his field stopped the tractor and called out to them that they were, in fact, lost. He walked over to them and communicated where they needed to go to connect again with the path.

The amazing cook who started our morning with laughter and the best bread for breakfast & then hooked us up with great sandwiches for the day when we were out of provisions in our packs. She only uses organic ingredients and was full of good wishes and hugs for all pilgrims who were lucky enough to stop in her restaurant. 

The woman whose little tienda (shop) was truly a needed break. It had been days since a town with a big store and she carried pears, bananas, nuts, dried pineapple, yogurt, and other delicious treats in addition to the usual quick options. Plus there was lovely classical music playing and comfy chairs on a deck. She even had a bench fashioned from an old bathtub! 

As the journey continues, I am sure we will meet many more hospitable folks!

May church newsletter article

On Humility, Hay Wagons & What it means to be a 'true' pilgrim . . .

A conversation that seems to occur regularly among those who are walking the Camino centers around what one has to do, think, or believe for the pilgrimage to 'count'. Pilgrims are judged less 'true' if they don't carry their own backpack, if they stay in privately owned hostels or hotels or anywhere but the city or church hostel, if they don't attend mass at every church along the way, if they eat anything other than the food specifically offered to pilgrims, if they are biking rather than walking, or if they take a bus or taxi from one town to the next. The list goes on and on. How quickly our all-too human need to compare, sort, and rate someone else's experience against our own comes out! 

When you read this Kirsten and I will have been walking for a month, but as I write it has been just 14 days. We have walked over 200 kilometers and our feet know it! Regardless of what others might think, we feel like true pilgrims. However, my feet are slowing us down even more than anticipated. As we planned, I am not able to walk quickly. But we had practiced with our packs for so many months, we felt like the time we had allotted would give us time to make our way (with a few short days to give our toes a rest). But we didn't count on (1) challenging alpine snow passes in the Pyrenees, (2) several steep and rocky downhill stretches where much of the path has washed out (which means I have to walk at a snail's pace), (3) multiple blisters that keep my feet very tender, or (4) the hottest & driest spring the locals can remember.  All of these things mean that we are behind the schedule we had set for ourselves.

The experienced pilgrims we've spoken with, those who have walked the Camino multiple times - and who, incidentally, don't usually enter into the "real pilgrim" debates - have advised us to skip ahead. To not worry about our slow pace - for which we are actually commended. There is a portion of the Camino which, to a person, they recommend just skipping:hopping a bus or train rather than walking. Their advice is to move ahead apiece and then complete the walk to Santiago and the sea beyond. One of them even said, "You know the ancient pilgrims would hop on the occasional hay wagon!" 

The Camino has, thus far, been truly humbling, and at times frustrating, but we are still so grateful to have the opportunity to walk this pilgrimage. It is an amazing way to experience this lovely country and culture. The radical hospitality offered to pilgrims is also truly humbling. We will continue to learn from this sabbatical for years to come.

We aren't yet sure what will unfold in the days ahead. While we will remain aware of the possibility of "hopping on a hay wagon," there is no rush to decide. That may be one of the greatest gifts of this walk: the time to enjoy today and the gifts it offers, knowing that there will be time to deal with the concerns of tomorrow when tomorrow comes. And today has been a beautiful blue-sky day, filled with cool breezes and birdsong, endless vineyards of Rioja, easy laughter with fellow pilgrims we haven't even known for 24 hours, and a place to stay for the night that even has a little pool/fountain to cool our weary feet. 

We look forward to sharing more, but for now may your day be as wonderful as the one we've just had!  

April church newsletter article

On the Way . . .

 As I write this article, there is an explosion of items waiting to be contained in my backpack: clothes, sleeping bag, blister treatment, some toiletries, journal, hiking boots, water container, rain poncho . . . The list isn’t so very long, but that almost twenty pounds of stuff will be what I carry with me as I depart in one week for this sabbatical journey. 

 

As you read this, April will have begun. And with it this year comes the end of the journey of Lent. Maundy Thursday and Good Friday will once again be followed by the good news that is Easter Sunday, all on the very first weekend of the month. The long journey toward Jerusalem has been completed . . .but the journey of Easter has just begun! That is news for some - that Easter isn’t just a day, but a seven week season leading to Pentecost. From what we can tell, Easter or the Resurrection, was the earliest event celebrated by the church. Long before we were lighting Christmas trees and planning pageants, people were preparing for baptism on Easter Sunday to be welcomed into the life and full membership of the church. Because of the significance of the resurrection to our faith, Easter is celebrated each and every Sunday as a “little Easter.” But during Eastertide, the fifty days between Easter and Pentecost, we REALLY celebrate! Our scriptures and songs focus on the new life we have in Christ and remind us that all are beloved children of God and truly have nothing to fear - not even death itself. Alleluia and Amen! 

 

While each Easter leads us through a spiritual journey, this year, for me, the journey of Eastertide will be marked by a physical one. If all goes as planned, this Easter I will be embarking as a pilgrim on the Camino de Santiago. As I have shared with you all, I can’t wait to see what this journey holds. I am sure there will be surprises in the form of both challenges and delights. While I have researched this ancient path, trained for over a year and prepared as best I can, I am also aware that only God knows what will unfold each day as I journey with others, one step at a time. 

 

One thing I do know, is that I will have ample opportunity to slow down and pray. So, in addition to a backpack full of supplies, I will be carrying all of you with me, as well. I will be holding you in prayer this Eastertide. It is my hope that you will pray for me, too, for in some ways, we make this journey together with one another, and with all of our brothers and sisters in faith as we walk together through this season of celebrating love and life on our way to the amazing gifts of Pentecost. 

 

It is customary for pilgrims to wish one another well along the way by saying, “Buen Camino.” So, I will sign off with that salutation to each of you as we enter this Eastertide pilgrimage together. 

 

Buen Camino,

Jennifer