Madrid is a city that is full of energy and we are staying right in the middle of the old city. Because it is Holy Week (en español: Semana Santa) there are special events happening and lots of the usual tourist stops have limited hours. In order to see a bit more of this region, enjoy the quieter countryside, and to fill days which in other times of the year might have been jam packed with museums and tours, we have taken a few day trips.
The first was to San Lorenzo de El Escorial. It is a lovely place, named for the saint on whose feast day the King of Spain enjoyed a military victory. St. Lawrence/San Lorenzo died a gruesome death - burned on a gridiron. So the king had the town and the palace/cathedral complex designed in that shape, incorporating lots of crosses in the design as well. It was fascinating to see the details of the architecture in what is now a museum. After having visited Versailles in France, it was interesting to see a different kind of palace complex. The art, architecture, gardens and grounds are impressive in both locations. The town is also quite beautiful and the ride out from Madrid afforded us wonderful views of the area.
We spent the following day in the medieval city of Toledo. It was Spain's capitol city prior to Madrid. The city and it's buildings have been influenced by many peoples over time, including all three of the Abrahamic faiths, and you can still see the effects of all its former inhabitants. We were greeted at the train station by Moorish windows, tiles and so much color!
The old city sits atop a hill surrounded by a river. The walk up (and I do mean UP - it was indeed a good location for defense!) to the top has gorgeous views of the river, and includes bridges and walkways that truly make you feel as though you are walking into history.
The Alcazar sits at the top of the hill. After multiple incarnations it has been turned into a Spanish military history museum. While we were less excited about suits of armor, guns, etc., we were VERY intrigued by this place that has been built, damaged, rebuilt, remodeled, and claimed by so many for so long. It is an amazing building. And it was impressive to see a display of the swords crafted in Toledo, as well. For many years this city was home to artisans who produced beautifully crafted weapons. The intricate woke done on handles and blades is astonishing - indeed works of art. Interestingly, there is a sculptural mural outside of the Alcázar that depicts warfare, then the sword being relinquished to an angel, then eventually a figure plowing the land ... the work's theme depicts turning swords into plow shares. After spending the morning immersed in war history, we were left longing for the day that we would indeed expend as much energy and artistic effort toward feeding our brothers and sisters.
At the conclusion of our day trips, we were glad to have taken the opportunity to see and soak up some of Spain's long & complicated history. Surely our brief and elementary education will help us understand the significance of some of our travels as we make our way across this beautiful land.
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