Care & Feeding of Pilgrims

In addition to many interesting fellow peregrinos, we have also had the privilege of meeting many Spaniards along The Way. It is actually pretty amazing just how hospitable folks along this path are to this rag tag bunch of people who might walk into your store/restaurant/hostel/etc. sweaty, dripping wet from rain, wearing muddy boots and try to communicate their needs in a mixture of bad Spanglish and worse pantomime. But almost to a person, especially in the smaller towns and villages, we have been greeted with easy smiles, a willingness to communicate in whatever way will work, and a sincere spirit of true hospitality. As beautiful as the scenery has been, it is nothing compared to Spain's people. Here is a glimpse into that reality...

The ex-pat Texan albergue volunteer who moved to Spain with 2 duffel bags of stuff and her dog - she ran into us looking for a place to stay on a feast day (read: whole town shuts down, all beds full in private lodging) and offered to walk us to the municipal albergue all the while pointing out places that would be open if we needed sustenance later. 

The waitress who offered bags of ice and ibuprofen (and not a little sympathy) with our morning cafe con leche when she could see that my feet were hurting more than usual.

The kind cook who hooked us up with ribs grilled over a fire & awesome artichokes just when our bodies & spirits needed some serious nourishing. Then he gave us a shot of the local liqueur when we complemented his cooking & insisted we come back for breakfast where we were served the largest coffee we've had the whole trip!

A word of encouragement, even a smile or nod, can really lift your spirits when you've had a hard time sleeping the night before, or are on the last few kilometers of a long day of walking.  Many locals wish us 'Buen Camino!' or 'Buen Viaje' as we walk through a town - one man stopped to say, 'Welcome!' Sometimes cars or trucks who can see us from the road or highway will honk and wave. Once, in Pamplona at a stop light, a motorcyclist stopped, flipped up the visor on his helmet, and looked us in the eye saying, "Buen Camino!" before zooming off with the green light.

The kind man who offered us part of a chocolate bar with breakfast saying we needed the energy for our day of walking.  

The genius former pilgrim who runs a food truck oasis in the middle of nowhere. All the guidebooks warn you to pack provisions and be ready for a long haul. But this guy must have made a deal with one of the local farmers to use a corner of land. He had the food truck, plus tables and chairs and music and an awning in case of rain or too much sun. He had sandwiches, fruit, Spanish tortilla, hot coffee, tea and chocolate, cold beer and sodas, and even a rack of necessary blister bandaging equipment! Plus pictures from his Camino experience and words of encouragement for weary walkers.

The Camino isn't something for which you need a map or GPS. The way is marked with shells and yellow arrows, so mostly you just pay attention and follow. However, once in a while, especially in some cities, there can be a tricky turn. But the locals look out for pilgrims. We have had children point excitedly in the direction we should go, old men driving trucks stop in the road and gesticulate wildly to make sure we don't miss a turn, and more than one lady leaning out an upper floor window waving and calling down to us if they think we are going to take the wrong road. We even spoke to some pilgrims who went off course a couple of kilometers when a farmer tilling his field stopped the tractor and called out to them that they were, in fact, lost. He walked over to them and communicated where they needed to go to connect again with the path.

The amazing cook who started our morning with laughter and the best bread for breakfast & then hooked us up with great sandwiches for the day when we were out of provisions in our packs. She only uses organic ingredients and was full of good wishes and hugs for all pilgrims who were lucky enough to stop in her restaurant. 

The woman whose little tienda (shop) was truly a needed break. It had been days since a town with a big store and she carried pears, bananas, nuts, dried pineapple, yogurt, and other delicious treats in addition to the usual quick options. Plus there was lovely classical music playing and comfy chairs on a deck. She even had a bench fashioned from an old bathtub! 

As the journey continues, I am sure we will meet many more hospitable folks!