On Humility, Hay Wagons & What it means to be a 'true' pilgrim . . .
A conversation that seems to occur regularly among those who are walking the Camino centers around what one has to do, think, or believe for the pilgrimage to 'count'. Pilgrims are judged less 'true' if they don't carry their own backpack, if they stay in privately owned hostels or hotels or anywhere but the city or church hostel, if they don't attend mass at every church along the way, if they eat anything other than the food specifically offered to pilgrims, if they are biking rather than walking, or if they take a bus or taxi from one town to the next. The list goes on and on. How quickly our all-too human need to compare, sort, and rate someone else's experience against our own comes out!
When you read this Kirsten and I will have been walking for a month, but as I write it has been just 14 days. We have walked over 200 kilometers and our feet know it! Regardless of what others might think, we feel like true pilgrims. However, my feet are slowing us down even more than anticipated. As we planned, I am not able to walk quickly. But we had practiced with our packs for so many months, we felt like the time we had allotted would give us time to make our way (with a few short days to give our toes a rest). But we didn't count on (1) challenging alpine snow passes in the Pyrenees, (2) several steep and rocky downhill stretches where much of the path has washed out (which means I have to walk at a snail's pace), (3) multiple blisters that keep my feet very tender, or (4) the hottest & driest spring the locals can remember. All of these things mean that we are behind the schedule we had set for ourselves.
The experienced pilgrims we've spoken with, those who have walked the Camino multiple times - and who, incidentally, don't usually enter into the "real pilgrim" debates - have advised us to skip ahead. To not worry about our slow pace - for which we are actually commended. There is a portion of the Camino which, to a person, they recommend just skipping:hopping a bus or train rather than walking. Their advice is to move ahead apiece and then complete the walk to Santiago and the sea beyond. One of them even said, "You know the ancient pilgrims would hop on the occasional hay wagon!"
The Camino has, thus far, been truly humbling, and at times frustrating, but we are still so grateful to have the opportunity to walk this pilgrimage. It is an amazing way to experience this lovely country and culture. The radical hospitality offered to pilgrims is also truly humbling. We will continue to learn from this sabbatical for years to come.
We aren't yet sure what will unfold in the days ahead. While we will remain aware of the possibility of "hopping on a hay wagon," there is no rush to decide. That may be one of the greatest gifts of this walk: the time to enjoy today and the gifts it offers, knowing that there will be time to deal with the concerns of tomorrow when tomorrow comes. And today has been a beautiful blue-sky day, filled with cool breezes and birdsong, endless vineyards of Rioja, easy laughter with fellow pilgrims we haven't even known for 24 hours, and a place to stay for the night that even has a little pool/fountain to cool our weary feet.
We look forward to sharing more, but for now may your day be as wonderful as the one we've just had!
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