Care & Feeding of Pilgrims

In addition to many interesting fellow peregrinos, we have also had the privilege of meeting many Spaniards along The Way. It is actually pretty amazing just how hospitable folks along this path are to this rag tag bunch of people who might walk into your store/restaurant/hostel/etc. sweaty, dripping wet from rain, wearing muddy boots and try to communicate their needs in a mixture of bad Spanglish and worse pantomime. But almost to a person, especially in the smaller towns and villages, we have been greeted with easy smiles, a willingness to communicate in whatever way will work, and a sincere spirit of true hospitality. As beautiful as the scenery has been, it is nothing compared to Spain's people. Here is a glimpse into that reality...

The ex-pat Texan albergue volunteer who moved to Spain with 2 duffel bags of stuff and her dog - she ran into us looking for a place to stay on a feast day (read: whole town shuts down, all beds full in private lodging) and offered to walk us to the municipal albergue all the while pointing out places that would be open if we needed sustenance later. 

The waitress who offered bags of ice and ibuprofen (and not a little sympathy) with our morning cafe con leche when she could see that my feet were hurting more than usual.

The kind cook who hooked us up with ribs grilled over a fire & awesome artichokes just when our bodies & spirits needed some serious nourishing. Then he gave us a shot of the local liqueur when we complemented his cooking & insisted we come back for breakfast where we were served the largest coffee we've had the whole trip!

A word of encouragement, even a smile or nod, can really lift your spirits when you've had a hard time sleeping the night before, or are on the last few kilometers of a long day of walking.  Many locals wish us 'Buen Camino!' or 'Buen Viaje' as we walk through a town - one man stopped to say, 'Welcome!' Sometimes cars or trucks who can see us from the road or highway will honk and wave. Once, in Pamplona at a stop light, a motorcyclist stopped, flipped up the visor on his helmet, and looked us in the eye saying, "Buen Camino!" before zooming off with the green light.

The kind man who offered us part of a chocolate bar with breakfast saying we needed the energy for our day of walking.  

The genius former pilgrim who runs a food truck oasis in the middle of nowhere. All the guidebooks warn you to pack provisions and be ready for a long haul. But this guy must have made a deal with one of the local farmers to use a corner of land. He had the food truck, plus tables and chairs and music and an awning in case of rain or too much sun. He had sandwiches, fruit, Spanish tortilla, hot coffee, tea and chocolate, cold beer and sodas, and even a rack of necessary blister bandaging equipment! Plus pictures from his Camino experience and words of encouragement for weary walkers.

The Camino isn't something for which you need a map or GPS. The way is marked with shells and yellow arrows, so mostly you just pay attention and follow. However, once in a while, especially in some cities, there can be a tricky turn. But the locals look out for pilgrims. We have had children point excitedly in the direction we should go, old men driving trucks stop in the road and gesticulate wildly to make sure we don't miss a turn, and more than one lady leaning out an upper floor window waving and calling down to us if they think we are going to take the wrong road. We even spoke to some pilgrims who went off course a couple of kilometers when a farmer tilling his field stopped the tractor and called out to them that they were, in fact, lost. He walked over to them and communicated where they needed to go to connect again with the path.

The amazing cook who started our morning with laughter and the best bread for breakfast & then hooked us up with great sandwiches for the day when we were out of provisions in our packs. She only uses organic ingredients and was full of good wishes and hugs for all pilgrims who were lucky enough to stop in her restaurant. 

The woman whose little tienda (shop) was truly a needed break. It had been days since a town with a big store and she carried pears, bananas, nuts, dried pineapple, yogurt, and other delicious treats in addition to the usual quick options. Plus there was lovely classical music playing and comfy chairs on a deck. She even had a bench fashioned from an old bathtub! 

As the journey continues, I am sure we will meet many more hospitable folks!

May church newsletter article

On Humility, Hay Wagons & What it means to be a 'true' pilgrim . . .

A conversation that seems to occur regularly among those who are walking the Camino centers around what one has to do, think, or believe for the pilgrimage to 'count'. Pilgrims are judged less 'true' if they don't carry their own backpack, if they stay in privately owned hostels or hotels or anywhere but the city or church hostel, if they don't attend mass at every church along the way, if they eat anything other than the food specifically offered to pilgrims, if they are biking rather than walking, or if they take a bus or taxi from one town to the next. The list goes on and on. How quickly our all-too human need to compare, sort, and rate someone else's experience against our own comes out! 

When you read this Kirsten and I will have been walking for a month, but as I write it has been just 14 days. We have walked over 200 kilometers and our feet know it! Regardless of what others might think, we feel like true pilgrims. However, my feet are slowing us down even more than anticipated. As we planned, I am not able to walk quickly. But we had practiced with our packs for so many months, we felt like the time we had allotted would give us time to make our way (with a few short days to give our toes a rest). But we didn't count on (1) challenging alpine snow passes in the Pyrenees, (2) several steep and rocky downhill stretches where much of the path has washed out (which means I have to walk at a snail's pace), (3) multiple blisters that keep my feet very tender, or (4) the hottest & driest spring the locals can remember.  All of these things mean that we are behind the schedule we had set for ourselves.

The experienced pilgrims we've spoken with, those who have walked the Camino multiple times - and who, incidentally, don't usually enter into the "real pilgrim" debates - have advised us to skip ahead. To not worry about our slow pace - for which we are actually commended. There is a portion of the Camino which, to a person, they recommend just skipping:hopping a bus or train rather than walking. Their advice is to move ahead apiece and then complete the walk to Santiago and the sea beyond. One of them even said, "You know the ancient pilgrims would hop on the occasional hay wagon!" 

The Camino has, thus far, been truly humbling, and at times frustrating, but we are still so grateful to have the opportunity to walk this pilgrimage. It is an amazing way to experience this lovely country and culture. The radical hospitality offered to pilgrims is also truly humbling. We will continue to learn from this sabbatical for years to come.

We aren't yet sure what will unfold in the days ahead. While we will remain aware of the possibility of "hopping on a hay wagon," there is no rush to decide. That may be one of the greatest gifts of this walk: the time to enjoy today and the gifts it offers, knowing that there will be time to deal with the concerns of tomorrow when tomorrow comes. And today has been a beautiful blue-sky day, filled with cool breezes and birdsong, endless vineyards of Rioja, easy laughter with fellow pilgrims we haven't even known for 24 hours, and a place to stay for the night that even has a little pool/fountain to cool our weary feet. 

We look forward to sharing more, but for now may your day be as wonderful as the one we've just had!  

April church newsletter article

On the Way . . .

 As I write this article, there is an explosion of items waiting to be contained in my backpack: clothes, sleeping bag, blister treatment, some toiletries, journal, hiking boots, water container, rain poncho . . . The list isn’t so very long, but that almost twenty pounds of stuff will be what I carry with me as I depart in one week for this sabbatical journey. 

 

As you read this, April will have begun. And with it this year comes the end of the journey of Lent. Maundy Thursday and Good Friday will once again be followed by the good news that is Easter Sunday, all on the very first weekend of the month. The long journey toward Jerusalem has been completed . . .but the journey of Easter has just begun! That is news for some - that Easter isn’t just a day, but a seven week season leading to Pentecost. From what we can tell, Easter or the Resurrection, was the earliest event celebrated by the church. Long before we were lighting Christmas trees and planning pageants, people were preparing for baptism on Easter Sunday to be welcomed into the life and full membership of the church. Because of the significance of the resurrection to our faith, Easter is celebrated each and every Sunday as a “little Easter.” But during Eastertide, the fifty days between Easter and Pentecost, we REALLY celebrate! Our scriptures and songs focus on the new life we have in Christ and remind us that all are beloved children of God and truly have nothing to fear - not even death itself. Alleluia and Amen! 

 

While each Easter leads us through a spiritual journey, this year, for me, the journey of Eastertide will be marked by a physical one. If all goes as planned, this Easter I will be embarking as a pilgrim on the Camino de Santiago. As I have shared with you all, I can’t wait to see what this journey holds. I am sure there will be surprises in the form of both challenges and delights. While I have researched this ancient path, trained for over a year and prepared as best I can, I am also aware that only God knows what will unfold each day as I journey with others, one step at a time. 

 

One thing I do know, is that I will have ample opportunity to slow down and pray. So, in addition to a backpack full of supplies, I will be carrying all of you with me, as well. I will be holding you in prayer this Eastertide. It is my hope that you will pray for me, too, for in some ways, we make this journey together with one another, and with all of our brothers and sisters in faith as we walk together through this season of celebrating love and life on our way to the amazing gifts of Pentecost. 

 

It is customary for pilgrims to wish one another well along the way by saying, “Buen Camino.” So, I will sign off with that salutation to each of you as we enter this Eastertide pilgrimage together. 

 

Buen Camino,

Jennifer

 

People we have met along The Way. . .

There is a stream of humanity that have made the walk to Santiago and the sea beyond that goes at least as far back as the Celts in Spain. It is kind of amazing to realize you are walking along the same path as did Francis of Assisi, King Ferdinand, Queen Isabella and Shirley MacLain, to name a random few. We have encountered a variety of pilgrims and thought you might like to know about a few. Names have been omitted to protect the innocent & also because our memories aren't always reliable! 

The Australian who had more gadgets and apps than Steve Jobs.

The German grandpa walking for the fourth time in 10 years to "get it right."   

The Russian/American who had researched local liqueurs. 

The Dutch girls on a gap year who had hitchhiked down and who have the best spirit of anyone we've met - those two know how to live life! 

The super chatty California guy who wrote songs for the dying, complained about not getting wifi on his iPad (yet he refused to take it out of airplane mode), and who was afraid to drink the water - so while he was worried about weight in his pack (which he didn't know how to adjust), was bringing along a water purifier.

The Spanish guys who made us laugh. Even though they were annoyed with our Spanish skills they were happy to run into us more than once.

Jennifer's "Blister Sister" from Germany with the positive spirit, who was so tired one night she couldn't remember her name while checking in to the albergue.

The English couple who are very thoughtful of others, but who take over an hour to pack up each day - after breakfast, when most pilgrims have left town. 

The loud Louisiana couple, about whom we know TOO much, who at least honestly label themselves tourist pilgrims because they stay in hotels, have others carry their packs and care more about the stars their restaurant has than trying to communicate in Spanish with those who are serving them.

The hippie chick from Finland with the easy laugh and the dandelion crown, who is struggling with walking the Camino alone, but who has grand plans for living off the grid in Lapland with her friends when she returns home. 

The widower from Spain whose wife died when he was walking the Camino two years ago. He is walking again, in part for her. He'll tell you all about her and how he fell in love at 18 (some 52 years ago) while showing you her picture with a twinkle in his eye. Though his Spanish is swift and his English nonexistent, somehow he is easy to understand.

The family from California we met the first day. Mom literally got blown over by the wind in the mountains. But she got back up, and all three were optimistic about the weeks ahead.

The British couple with whom we got tickled about the PlayMobil exhibit at the Santo Domingo cathedral (you read that right - stations of the cross AND Semana Santa processions all made out of playmobile figures!). We met again at the multilingual prayer service AND they hooked us up by telling us about the oft missed doors that lead to a staircase so you can walk around on the roof of the cathedral! 

The small but mighty woman from Denmark who keeps appearing in surprising places. She'll try most anything, including putting onion slices in her socks at night because someone told her it helps them rejuvenate from the day of walking.  

The sweet older guys from Belgium, Italy, and Spain who we met our first day of walking. The next day was spent making it through the snowy pass over the mountain. It took us so long we barely made it to town in time to get a room before the church service. We missed dinner and went looking for some food that night at the local bar -we were so physically and emotionally exhausted, achy and famished. We ordered wine and some tapas. When it was time to go the bartender said our bill had been paid and motioned to a table where our new friends were enjoying a beer. They said they were happy we were walking the Way. It made me cry then, and does now just thinking about their kindness on such a difficult day. 

The Cerveza dudes from Italy & France. Two 20somethings who met on the trail and were taking the Camino one beer at a time. They were delightful to chat with and we might run into them someday in Colorado since they want to see the US and some mountains...also, you know, beer.

The Canadian with Cerebral Palsy who only has the use of one hand, but who averages 25-30 kilometers a day over all terrain, all the while encouraging others.

The family from Holland who have walked from their front door to Rome (about 2500 kilometers) in 80 days. They began at home for the Camino, too. Did we mention, it is a brother, sister and his wife and the youngest one might be 75....

The math teacher and artist from Michigan who brought with him origami paper. He gives talks around the world speaking about math, science and the art of paper folding. He folds a cross every day and gives it away. 

This is just a small sample, and we are only about halfway through! Can't wait to see who we'll meet or see again in the days ahead. 

Camino-ffiti

There have been some artists at work, resulting in graffiti along the Way. We'll share some of our favorites with you. The works fall into three categories:

1. Typical "Bob was here" or "Guido loves Maria" or " for a good time call..." These we are not so interested in capturing for posterity. Also not captured are typical gang-esque tagging.

2. Political statements, made by those who appear to have some anger issues towards the current Spanish government. We were aware that entire regions are interested in independence, but the feelings are stronger than we anticipated - on both sides. We have photographed some of the more family-friendly sentiments. Also of interest: we find these messages written in English and in Spanish. 

3. Supportive art & words of encouragement, by both locals (we assume) and pilgrims (the attribution is more obvious). 

     

      

Surprising Camino Discoveries

After eleven days of walking here are some things we've learned (in no particular order)...

An omelette sandwich (eggs, onion, peppers on a baguette) made in the morning turns out to be a great, filling, protein packed lunch! Cold eggs on bread - who knew?

A determined cow can jump over a cattle guard with aplomb - we watched one sassy girl outrun her owner & a cow dog in the process.

In the mountains there exists the tiniest daffodil/narcissus you ever did see. The flower head was smaller than a dime.

Tiny towns in Spain have the coolest playgrounds with equipment for kids and parents. Some of them are to help you work out, others massage your back or shoulders. Some are made of ropes and some are just for jumping. 

When you don't really know what your dinner choices are (beyond knowing basic words like pork, chicken, beef, fish, vegetable, etc.) ask the server/cook which one is best or more typical of the region. They are so glad to show off the house or regional specialty to a pilgrim who wants more than "nuggets of chicken." Ask for the "mas tipico" and you end up with delicious surprises like ribs cooked over an open fire, pork slow roasted with red peppers and garlic or a plate full of yummy artichokes.

Discovering that a dessert of sheep milk curd and honey (cuajada) is not only good and refreshing, but becomes your first choice!

It turns out that with proper bandages, Tylenol, Advil & Stop Pain you can walk 20k with a dozen blisters on your feet. 

Ear plugs are an indispensable item when sleeping in a bunk room with a lot of strangers. Assuming you actually want to sleep. You might think you are dead tired, but a room full of humans can be NOISY...

A little kid giving you directions because they are afraid you are about to miss a turn in their town is pretty awesome. Especially when he is directing you to the wine fountain. "It is free. Go there and drink it in."  Well, okay. 

You are not so picky about wine when it's a free gift.

Walking from snowy mountains into blooming springtime is gorgeous.

We knew ham (aka: jamon) was a big deal here, and it is everywhere, but there are even jamon flavored potato chips! Haven't tried those yet.

The oranges here are SO very good. Plus, fresh squeezed juice-YUM!

The variety of pilgrim bathroom set-ups seems to be infinite. We have learned the importance of being able to shower in the dark in case the 2&1/2 minute long light on a timer goes off while you are soapy and wet. Also, it is possible to get pretty clean in a shower that is smaller than 2 square feet! Who really needs a shelf, a hook, or even a curtain? If you are hot & sweaty & exhausted, you can surely work it out with ease, right?

The number of people who welcome us into their town, home, etc. also pretty amazing. Fun delivery drivers tooting their horns, commuters who have practically slammed on their brakes for you in a crosswalk wishing you a 'buen viaje,' two old men on a park bench working out where we should go for the best dinner in town....

An 8:30 bedtime can be SUCH a great thing!

Quick Camino Update

After a week of walking, we can report that a typical day on the Camino looks like this:

Wake up (before dawn - earlier if your bunkmates want to start walking before dawn)

Treat blisters, etc., brush teeth & hair, get dressed (hope your clothes are dry from washing the night before)

Eat "typical Spanish breakfast" of coffee, bread, butter and jam

Put on loaded back pack and begin walking (usually 7:30-8:30am)

2-4 kilometers later, stop for coffee/tea & tortilla España (a potato/egg omelette kind of thing) which comes with more bread

Walk more (walking may include awesome views, big cities, picturesque Spanish villages, conversations with people from all over the world, periodic snacks, a few tears, the occasional pep talk, some singing, lots of prayer, birdsong & rivers,  and humbling spots where you can only keep going with the help of others)

When you can walk no longer (usually from 3-5pm) push through to the next town with a place to stay (albergue) - which can include 2-30 other people in bunks. Check in, get your credential stamped, leave your boots on the shelf with others, put on other shoes (feel your feet rejoice) find your bunk.

Shower (and give thanks for indoor, heated plumbing!)

Wash clothes from the day (usually by hand) & hang to dry

Find a snack, take a breath, stretch, deal with blisters/sunburn

Run errands - fruit, cheese, nuts for road/sunscreen, Tylenol, etc...

Find out about dinner - at albergue or local bar/restaurant - usually around 7pm & usually "pilgrim's menu" of an appetizer, a main dish (often served with fries), sometimes a dessert, always with bread & wine for about 8-12 €.

Get ready for bed (usually around 8:30-9:30pm) -  and plan to upload pictures & work on the blog tomorrow if the albergue has wifi.

Think about those you love and say a prayer for them, realize how grateful you are for all you saw & experienced today, write in journal till you fall asleep.